Hostoric trilogy

The first thought that came into my mind after visiting Okara can be described by four words: milk, butter, mammals and farms. Peers also told me the same. Besides Harappan ruins, I did not know the area. But one thing I did know, though, was that I should be happy to say goodbye to the place. Two years later, I felt drawn to the area and its people and it was very hard for me to part. There is so much to be seen, so much to be done. Above all, it has spirited, sincere and full-of-love people living in Gogera, Dipalpur and Pakpattan historic trilogy. The distances in the hinterland are short but the landscape is so enormous that it had to be studied in parts like a large mural seen by a child.

One of the first places I came to know after settling down is a village Thatta Ghulamka Dheroka near Okara. The unique claim of the village to international fame is the dolls and toys made by village women that are a collectors’ delight all over the world. Dolls made in the village have traveled to International Dolls Museum in Amsterdam and also have been put on display in the theme park at EXPO 2000 in Hanover, Germany, as one of the 767 worldwide projects. Earlier, the dolls participated in the International Toy Fair in Nuremberg. These dolls show how culture goes beyond simple works of art and becomes a collaboration among applied and natural sciences as well as other forces that affect our lives.

Murals are painted on the parameter mud walls in the village where doll collectors and people interested in sustainable development and rural heritage come and stay as paying guests. The village folks still consider cooing crows as symbol of the arrival of the guests. Architectural competitions are held annually when the best mud house is selected. The Chief Harappan Explorer Dr. Mark Kenoyer had the place on the jury in competition held last July. Two full time German volunteers, Dr Norbert Pintsch and Dr Senta Siller, and village people are working together to change the life and outlook in this peaceful hamlet. Whenever I visited the village, I saw something new, something different, which the villagers do to make difference in a place where they belong.

When going to the village you pass through Gogera — a famous place where Ahmed Khan Kharral broke jail during the War of Independence in 1857, and the place where Extra Assistant commissioner Berkley was defeated and killed by the resilient locals.

East of Okara, there are four places which provide you reason enough for going there again and again: Malka Hans, Pakpattan, Dipalpur and Sher Garh. Each one of these places holds thousands of intriguing secrets.

There are at least two folk romances that unfailingly echo in the mind of anyone who let his fancy and feet roam around this historic tract. Waris Shah composed his classic folk romance Heer Rangha during his stay in Malka Hans – a 700 year-old town. ‘Hujra Waris Shah Da’ located in an ancient mosque, constructed during the rule of Hans tribe, and the remains of five-story temple of Parnami faction of Hindus in Malka Hans, merit attention, which has not being given. The temple cannot be described in words or images. I sat on the heap of rubbles in the courtyard of the temple where people dry grains, keep the animals, and wondered.

As per another famous lore, the nearby town Hujra Shah Muqeem is the place where Saheban is supposed to have visited and prayed “sunjain howan gallian which Mirza yar phire” (the streets should be deserted for my lover Mirza to roam around). The tale is mentioned in famed Punjabi love story Mirza Saheban, but there is no historic evidence that Jatti Saheban came to the place and prayed. Both these romances are vital part of our widespread oral literature, Recitation of Heer, in a single and vibrant tone. It is an amazing phenomenon. There is another love story set in Mughal period living village Akbar near Gogera. A girl jumped into the grave when people were burying her lover and insisted that she be buried alive with him. The grave is still there on the citadel, accumulating debris of ages, in the village.

Pakpattan and Dipalpur are two of the oldest living cities of the South Asia and strategic sites of the past. A complexity of ideas, directly related to evolution of civilization in this part of the world, seems encircling these places. Besides kings and sultans – from Sabuktigine to Akbar — great men like Ibn-e-Batuta, Amir Kusro, Gru Nanik and Waris Shah visited at least one or both of these places. One of the thriving trade routes of the past passed through Adjodhan (name officially changed by Mughal King Akbar to Pakpattan due to its association with Saint Baba Farid ud Din Masod Ganj Shakar). Now the original builders might not even recognize these towns if they come back. These locations are not mentioned in travel guides, but anyone who wants to re-live the past can go there and know more about the archives.

In Sher Garh, you see a towering shrine of a saint Muhammad Ibrahim Kirmani Daud-e-Sani Bandgi. Sit for a while in the restful compound of the shrine and somebody will offer you food and some other might tell you a tale: the mason from Kasur, who installed the heavy pinnacle on the shrine, asked Shah Abdul Mou’ali to give him the best buffalo in his heard as charge of expert services to fix the pinnacle. The mason demanded this when he was standing at the top of the edifice of shrine before putting the final touches. Shah Abdul Mou’ali, who was the direct descendant of the saint, obliged the artisan and only then he came down, happy. Those were the days of commitments and reciprocal rights. Before turning to Sher Garh from National Highway near Renala Khurd, one may visit the still functional Ganga Hydroelectric Station installed by the famous philanthropist and engineer Sir Ganga Ram.

All these places in the trio introduced me to wonders and legions of what may be called middle ground of cultural fusion of the present Punjab. The area is a gold mine for history seekers, spiritual and curious travelers. You may find much more than what you hear or read. It pays to get out into the countryside and talk to ordinary people. People of the area are eager to help – on their own expense – when you ask them. I found volunteer ‘guides’ who were forthcoming with a wealth of information, from history to myths prevalent in the area. Where is Qaboola? Ask anybody when you are riding a bike with haversack and water bottle on your sides. The replies will always be same: nearby.

The ironic counter point is the lack of attention in maintaining the bits and pieces of unique heritage – the resource base of tourism. The neglect may be attributed to lack of awareness, education, coordination between authorities, economic constrains and/or simply the natural hazards. The magnificent vistas of a land of plans, fields and orchards have to be opened to the rest of the world. There is a need for information in the form of travel guide writing, pure travel journalism, travel book writing and geographical description in form of maps. No ordinary coldness of phrasing can express the surprise and delight, with which one makes acquaintance with the sites. Their perspective gives you a wonderful sense of being there. In fact, that is my recommendation: be there.

Top Ten Pakistan Blogs

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Delightfully tasty Eid dishes

Owais Mughal
 

The festival of Eid is here. Eid celebrations are not complete without some sweet dishes around . There is a very famous sher about sewayiaN (sweet vermacelli) which I want to share. arz kia hai (here I go):

jaatay hi bazm meiN jo us ne uThaai sewayiaN
jab tak bethay rahay hum na jhukaai sewayiaN

Today we’ve brought recipe’s of 4 sweet dishes from Begum Hafeez Inayatullah‘s book ‘Khana pakaana’. Her language and recipe’s directly seem to come out of Deputy Nazeer Ahmed‘s drama ‘Akbari and Asghari’.

(1) Sheer Khurma:

Sheer Khurma (photo at top left) which some people wrongly pronounce as ‘sheer qorma’ also, means a sweet milky and dried date dish.

When I first read the following recipe’ I mistakenly read it as ‘sher’ khurma, which means a Lion dish and it may still be true because if cooked properly ‘sheer khurma’ is indeed a ‘sher’ (lion) dish. Let us see what Begum Hafeez Inayatullah has to say:

(2) SewayiaN

No Eid is complete without a course of sweet vermacelli dish called ‘sewayiaN’. Do you agree? Well, whether you agree or not, SewayiaN in all forms is so delicious that I am forced to write:

na “IF” kijiyay, na “BUT” kijiyay
jo mil jaaye bus us ko chat kijiyay

Before I go to next recipe, I remember another ‘sher’ related to ‘sewayiaN’ from our Bazm-e-Eid Post of last year:

ye eid ke pakwan kaa kuch aisa asar hai
mahboob ki zulfeN bhi lagti hain sewayiaN

(3) Kheer

Kheer is a sweet mixture of rice and milk. Ofcourse not as simple as mixing these two together. One has to go through the ‘arq rez’ (juice extracting) hardwork of the recipe’ written below otherwise your kheer may turn out to be a teRhi kheer (An Urdu idiom which means a hard to get fruit). I like this recipe’ because it talks about serving kheer in earthen plates (photo:right) and covered with edible ‘silver’ decorations called ‘chandi ka waraq’. Serving kheer in such a way is something that has gone out of fashion decades ago. The last time I had kheer in an earthen plate was in my childhood. In traditional cooking lingo the process of putting ‘kheer’ in earthen plates is called ‘kheer lagaana’ and that reminds me of this famous sher:

ye kheer lag lag ke meri jaan kidhar jaati hai
ye meray qatal ka saamaan kidhar jaati hai

(4) Gajrela
In simplest of terms, the Gajrela recipe’ is same as the kheer recipe’ plus some carrots. Therefore Gajrela is also called gaajar kheer. But please! don’t be so naive as to simply add ‘carrots’ to the above recipe’. No. you won’t get the desired result. You must go through the pleasure of reading following recipe’ to get the desired taste. I also want to point out the unique word ‘gaajar ki guThli’ (seed of a carrot) used by Begum Sahiba below. No where else in Urdu literature can you find this word; ‘gaajar ki guThli’ :) And before I paste this unique recipe’ of gajrela below, a sher comes to mind which also sums up this whole post. ‘arz kia hai’:

sheer-khurma bhi pak raha hai, gajrela bhi pak raha hai
yehaN yooN bhi wah-wa hai, aur wooN bhi wah-wa hai

Dear readers, before we all end up eating too much sweets over the Eid holidays, I want to caution ourselves against an unwanted weight gain by quoting a Zameer Jafri sher:

ye buRhaapa to hai mujh ko khuda ne diya
magar ye moTaapa hai mera khud-saakhta

Northern Areas

Those who have taken the chance to brave the unruly mountainous terrain in the Northern Areas must have seen at least a few of the Alpine lakes in the area.

Two-hour away from Gilgit, situated in surprisingly cool and green meadow, Nultar is at 2,880 meters and heavily wooded. A one-hour jeep ride from Nultar village takes to a mysterious Nultar Lake, the colour of which emanates from the bottom. Few visitors realize that Nultar Lake is just the beginning of the wonderful Nultar highlands.

There are four more lakes of different colours above Nultar Lake: one cobalt-blue, one emerald, one turquoise and the last one at the highest altitude (3,550 meters) is grey and turbid due to glacial melt. The five lakes are connected underground, and the originally turbid water is naturally filtered and becomes clean, successively supplying the other lakes from the highest to the lowest.

Two lakes are situated near Dalsangpa - idyllic place at 4,150 meters that reflect a spectacular view of the dominating Masherbrum (7,821 meters). Translated as “an island of flowers” in Balti language, Dalsangpa is filled with alpine flowers in early August. Literally every grass blooms with its own flower. Among them, biebersteinia odora, called Horoos in Balti, is the most famous because of its strong fragrance.

Lack Shaucer is situated near Deosai. The deep blue Shaucer Lake, nestled in the pass, offers picture-book scenery. The view looking northward is of the endless series of peaks of the Karakoram Range, and to the south stands the 8,000 meters plus giant Nanga Parbat. Shaucer Lake is the most impressive part of the Deosai.

Off the beaten track, up in the upper Hunza Valley, is another lake Sheosar. This place offers beautiful views of distant peaks and a panoramic view of Deosai Plains. At Bara Pani, one may spend hours in a hope to watch a Bear.

North of Pasu glacier are Pasughar and Borit Lakes. Incredible peaks poked up from behind ridges, allowing sightseers to see nearly a dozen of the 100 tallest mountains in the course of one day.

Beyond Babusar Pass near Gittidas is the 11,000 feet high Lulusar Lake out of which river Kunhar issues anew with redoubled strength to flow down the valley first as placid blue stream and then a roaring torrent until it joins the River Jhelum. Lulusar has very enchanting beauty and its view remains in the mind of any one for a long time. Mohodand Lake is another beautiful lake about fifty kilometres from Kalam, the heart of the Swat valley.

And then there is a lake Saiful Muluk we are more familiar with; the Crown Prince of Persia hears about the beauty of the fairy Princess Badar Jamal - the daughter of king of Caucasus - and falls in love. The prince after wandering and hardships succeeds in winning the heart of Badar Jamal. The lake becomes the rendezvous where the lovers meet: contemplating matters of heart and their future together, hence the name.

With increase in tourism, lakes in the Northern Areas are becoming home to growing human activities: camping grounds and grazing fields. Visitors leave heaps of trash. Environmentalists think that carelessly growing human activities are destroying the environs of these heavenly spots on earth.

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Railway Stations of Pakistan

Owais Mughal

Few days ago ATP asked our readers to take a guess on number of Railway Stations in Pakistan. As far as my own personal research shows, the correct number is 1009 (possibly a few more) and my compilation of the complete index of stations is given below.

Some readers did guess the correct range, but as we had expected, most underestimated the number. I might have done so myself had I not already done the research. The list of stations is interesting to view, if only because you would read so many place names that you might never have heard of. I hope it will also make us think about the wonder that was the railway system in Pakistan at one time, but is no more.

The list below includes the stations that are currently operative as well as those which are now closed. We believe this list is still not exhaustive. There was atleast one railway section which connected Bahawalpur (Baghdad station) directly to Fort Abbas. This section was uprooted in the 1940s when during the World War II British needed steel. I am definitely missing the names of stations that were located on that section. If our readers know of any station that we missed, then let us know and we’ll update our records.

Before we go the list on next section, I want to feature the photo above by Tahir Iqbal of a small and now-closed Railway Station near Gujranwala called Theri Sansi. Pakistan has got hundreds of such small railway stations. With every passing day, unfortunately more and more of them are getting closed as Railways as means of transport in Pakistan is on a continuous decline.

The following list is current as of November 11, 2010

1. Abad

2. Abbasnagar (not operational)

3. Abbaspur (not operational)

4. Abdul Hakim

5. Abdullahabad (Halt)

6. Abdullahpur Kolar

7. Ab-I-Gum

8. Adamsahaba

9. Adamwahan

10. Ahmadpur

11. Ahmedwal

12. Ahsanpur

13. Air Force (Halt) (not operational)

14. Airport (Halt) (not operational)

15. Ajnala

16. Akhtar Karnana

17. Akhtarabad (old name Dhuniwala)

18. Akora Khattak

19. Ala

20. Alam Reg

21. Alamgir Town (Halt)

22. Aldana

23. Alhar

24. Alipur Chatha (old name Akalgarh)

25. Alipur Sayadan Sharif (old name Alipur Sayadan)

26. Allahdadani

27. Allahdino Sand

28. Alluwali

29. Amirpur (Halt)

30. Ammu Siding Beleli

31. Amri

32. Amruka

33. Arain Road

34. Arif Wala

35. Ashraf Shah

36. Asrani (not operational)

37. Athilpur

38. Attock City Jn (old name Cambellpur)

39. Attock Khurd (old name Attock)

40. Azad

41. Azmatwala

42. Babakwal

43. Babar Kachh

44. Babari Banda

45. Badah

46. Badal Nala

47. Badami Bagh

48. Baddomalhi

49. Badin

50. Badli Mazari

51. Bagatora

52. Baghdad

53. Bagiari (not operational)

54. Bahalike

55. Bahawalnagar Jn

56. Bahawalpur

57. Bahram Hathiyun

58. Bahrianwala (not operational)

59. Bahuman (not operational)

60. Bakhsh Jatoi (Halt)

61. Bakhshan Khan

62. Bakhshapur

63. Bakhtiarabad Domki (old name Bell-pat)

64. Bakrala

65. Bakrani Road

66. Baldher

67. Baldia (not operational – located on Karachi Circular Railway)

68. Balishah

69. Balochabad

70. Bandhi

71. Bandial

72. Banh Mianwala

73. Banni Bangla

74. Bannu (old name Edwardsabad) (not operational)

75. Barocho Bagh (not operational)

76. Baruli

77. Basal Jn

78. Basal Sharif (Halt)

79. Basirpur

80. Basti Darwesh Lashari

81. Basti Fauja

82. Basti Qutab Shah

83. Basti Rehman

84. Begmanji

85. Begowala Ghartal

86. Behal

87. Behkari (not operational)

88. Beleli

89. Bero Chandia (not operational)

90. Bhakkar

91. Bhalwal

92. Bhan Sayadabad

93. Bhaun (not operational)

94. Bhera

95. Bhila Hithar

96. Bhiria Road

97. Bhitshah (not operational)

98. Bhoe Asal

99. Bholari

100. Bhumb

101. Bhurgari (not operational)

102. Bijar (Halt)

103. Bijrani (old name Unarwah)

104. Bin Qasim Pipri

105. Bobi Road (not operational)

106. Border Post 72

107. Bostan Afghanan

108. Bostan Jn

109. Braudabad

110. Bubak Road

111. Buch

112. Bucheri

113. Buchiana

114. Budapur

115. Budh

116. Budho

117. Burhan

118. Burj

119. Cadet College Kohat

120. Cadet College Petaro (old name Petaro)

121. Chabiana

122. Chachar

123. Chachran (not operational)

124. Chagai

125. Chah Noor Mohammad

126. Chak

127. Chak Abdullah

128. Chak Amru

129. Chak Asmatullah (Halt) (not operational)

130. Chak Ibrahim Bhatti

131. Chak Jhumra Jn

132. Chak Kambo

133. Chak Lala

134. Chak Naurang (Halt) (not operational)

135. Chak Nizam (not operational)

136. Chak Pirana

137. Chak Saida (Halt)

138. Chak Sher Mohammad

139. Chak Turan

140. Chak Wariachanwala

141. Chakwal (not operational)

142. Chalisa Jn

143. Chaman

144. Chandrami (Halt) (not operational)

145. Chanesar (Halt)

146. Chang

147. Changa Manga

148. Chanigot

149. Charnali

150. Charsadda (not operational)

151. Chauntra

152. Chaweka Road

153. Chawinda

154. Chenab West Bank

155. Chet Singhwala (not operational)

156. Chhab

157. Chhor

158. Chichawatni Road

159. Chichoki Mallian

160. Chidarzai (not operational)

161. Chikarkot (not operational)

162. Chilianwala

163. Chiniot

164. Chishtian

165. Choa Kariala

166. Chukhra (Halt) (not operational)

167. Chund

168. Chura Sharif (Halt)

169. Chutiana

170. D.C.O.S (Halt) (not operational)

171. Dabanwala

172. Dabheji

173. Dad Fatihana

174. Dadu

175. Daera Dinpanah

176. Daera Mehram

177. Daharki

178. Dalbandin

179. Damboli

180. Dandot

181. Darbar Sahib Kartarpur

182. Darbelo (not operational)

183. Darkhana

184. Darsmand (not operational)

185. Dar-ul-Ihsan (old name Salar Wala)

186. Darya Khan

187. Daud (Halt)

188. Daud Khel Jn

189. Daulatala (not operational)

190. Daulatpur Safan (not operational)

191. Daur

192. Deona Juliani

193.Deparja

194. Departure Yard

195. Depot Hill Jn (not operational – Karachi Circular Railway)

196. Dera Allahyar (old name Jhatpat)

197. Dera Azim Khan (Halt) (not operational)

198. Dera Bakha (not operational)

199. Dera Ghazi Khan

200. Dera Murad Jamali (old name Temple Dera)

201. Dera Nawab Sahib

202. Dera Taj

203. Detha

204. Dhab Sanateka (not operational)

205. Dhak

206. Dhandi (not operational)

207. Dharowal Kang (Halt)

208. Dhaunkal

209. Dher Umed Ali

210. Dholan

211. Dhoro Naro

212. Dhrema (not operational)

213. Dhudial (not operational)

214. Digri

215. Dilmurad

216. Dina

217. Dinga

218. Dingra

219. Doaba (not operational)

220. Domala (old name Manjoke)

221. Domel (old name Pind Sultani Road)

222. Domeli

223. Dorata

224. Dozan

225. Drigh Colony Jn

226. Drigh Road Jn

227. Dunga Bunga (not operational)

228. Dunyapur

229. Durgai (not operational) (used to be the last station on Mardan-Dargai line)

230. Eminabad

231. Faisalabad (old name Lyallpur)

232. Faisalabad Dry Port

233. Faqir Hussain Shaheed (old name Nak Band) (not operational)

234. Faqirabad (old name Lawrencepur)

235. Faqirwali (not operational)

236. Farooqabad (old name Chuharkana)

237. Farooqia (Halt) (old name Hattar)

238. Fateh Jang

239. Fateh Shahpur (Halt)

240. Fazal Bhambro

241. Fazilpur Dhandi (not operational)

242. Firoza

243. Fort Abbas (not operational)

244. Gaddar

245. Gagan

246. Gaggoo

247. Gajargola

248. Galangur

249. Gambat

250. Gambila Serai (not operational)

251. Ganda Singhwala (not operational)

252. Garhi Khairo

253. Gat (Halt) (b/w Yakmach and Azad stations on Dalbandin-Koh-I-Taftan section) (not operational)

254. Gatti

255. Ghakka Mittar (not operational)

256. Ghakkar Mandi

257. Gharibwal

258. Ghotki

259. Ghulamabad (Halt) (not operational)

260. Ghungrila

261. Gidu (not operational) (located on the banks of River Indus at Kotri)

262. Gilani (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway – was supposed to be Karachi’s Central Train Terminal in one of the Master plans of the city)

263. Gilawala

264. Gilmala (Halt)

265. Girdhariwala (not operational)

266. Gojra

267. Golpur

268. Golpur Talbani

269. Golra Sharif Jn (old name Golra Jn)

270. Gopang

271. Gosarji

272. Goth Shah Mohammad (not operational)

273. Gujar (old name Sody)

274. Gujar Garhi (not operational)

275. Gujar Khan

276. Gujranwala

277. Gujranwala Cant (old name Rahwali)

278. Gujranwala City (old name Gujranwala Town)

279. Gujrat

280. Gul Beg Marri (not operational)

281. Gul Imam (not operational)

282. Gul Sher

283. Gulistan

284. Gunna Kalan

285. Gurmani

286. Habib Kot Jn

287. Habibabad (old name Wan Radharam)

288. Hadali

289. Hafizabad

290. Haibat Shahid

291. Haider Jatoi (Halt)

292. Haji Chand

293. Hala (not operational)

294. Halani (not operational)

295. Halloki (Halt)

296. Hamdaniwala

297. Hangu (not operational) (Narrow gauge)

298. Haranpur

299. Harappa (old name Harappa Road)

300. Harbanspura

301. Hariah

302. Haripur Band

303. Haripur Hazara

304. Harnai

305. Harnal (Halt) (not operational)

306. Harunabad (not operational)

307. Haryanwala

308. Hasan Rind (not operational)

309. Hasilpur

310. Hasisar

311. Hassan Abdal

312. Hathiyan (not operational)

313. Haveli Wasawewala (old name Wasawewala)

314. Havelian

315. Hayat Sher Pao Shaheed

316. Hazrat Karmanwala (not operational)

317. Hazurpur

318. Hiral

319. Hirok

320. Humayun

321. Husri (not operational)

322. Hyderabad Jn

323. Injra

324. Iqbal Nagar

325. Isa Khel (not operational)

326. Jacobabad Jn

327. Jafarwala (not operational)

328. Jahangira Road

329. Jahania

330. Jajja Abbassian (not operational)

331. Jalal Marri

332. Jallo

333. Jallo Park (Halt)

334. Jalu-Jo-Chaunro (not operational)

335. Jam Sahib (not operational)

336. Jaman Shah

337. Jamke Chatta

338. Jampur

339. Jamraniwah

340. Jamrao Jn

341. Jamrud

342. Jan Muhammadwala

343. Jand Jn

344. Jangal Mariala

345. Janiwala

346. Jarala

347. Jaranwala

348. Jassar Jn

349. Jatoi (not operational)

350. Jauharabad

351. Jaurah Karnana

352. Jetha Bhutta

353. Jhakka Ladhana (on now closed Faisalabad-Jaranwala section) (not operational)

354. Jhalar

355. Jhamat

356. Jhang City

357. Jhang Sadar

358. Jhelum

359. Jhimpir

360. Jhok Ditta

361. Jhol (not operational)

362. Jhudo

363. Jhuluri

364. Jumma Goth

365. Jungshahi

366. Kabul River (not operational)

367. Kacha Khuh

368. Kachelo

369. Kachlak

370. Kahal (not operational)

371. Kahi (not operational)

372. Kahror Pakka

373. Kala Gujran (old name Kala)

374. Kala Khatai

375. Kala Shah Ka Ku

376. Kalabagh (not operational)

377. Kalanchwala

378. Kalas Goraya (Halt)

379. Kaleke

380. Kalhora (not operational)

381. Kaliamawan

382. Kallur Kot

383. Kalpani (not operational)

384. Kaluwal

385. Kamalia

386. Kamar Mashani (not operational)

387. Kamaro Sharif (not operational)

388. Kambar Ali Khan

389. Kamoke

390. Kan Mehtarzai (not operational) (used to be the highest narrow gauge station in South Asia before its closure in 1985)

391. Kana Kacha

392. Kanak (Halt)

393. Kandhkot

394. Kandiaro (not operational)

395. Kandwal (Halt)

396. Kanganpur

397. Kanjur

398. Kanjwani

399. Zorgarh

400. Karachi Cant

401. Karachi City

402. Karachi Unviersity (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

403. Karor

404. Karsaz (Halt) (not operational)

405. Karyal (Halt) (not operational)

406. Kashmor

407. Kashmor Colony

408. Kassowal

409. Kasur Jn

410. Kata Kushta (not operational)

411. Kathala

412. Kazi Ahmed (not operational)

413. Khadro

414. Khairabad Kund

415. Khairpur

416. Khan (not operational)

417. Khanai (not operational)

418. Khanewal Jn

419. Khanora

420. Khanot

421. Khanpur Jn

42 2. Khanqah Mohamed Panah (not operational)

423. Khanqah Sirajia

424. Kharian

425. Kharian Cant

426. Khatan (not operational)

427. Khathar

428. Khatian

429. Khatian Road

430. Khatlani Shaheed (Halt) (not operational)

431. Khattakabad

432. Khewra

433. Khichiwala (not operational)

434. Khokhropar

435. Khost

436. Khudabad

437. Khudian Khas

438. Khuman (not operational)

439. Khunda Ladheke

440. Khushab

441. Khushal Kot

442. Kiamari East Wharf

443. Kiamari West Wharf

444. Kila Dewa Singh

445. Kila Saifulla (not operational) (narrow gauge)

446. Killa Abdullah

447. Killa Sobha Singh

448. Kinjheji (not operational)

449. Kirdagap

450. Kiridhor (not operational)

451. Kishingi

452. Kissan

453. Kohat Cant

454. Kohat Tehsil (not operational)

455. Koh-I-Noor

456. Kolpur

457. Korangi (not operational) (spur on Karachi Circular Railway)

458. Kot Abadan (Halt)

459. Kot Abbas Shaheed (old name Kot Mela Ram)

460. Kot Adu Jn

461. Kot Behram

462. Kot Chutta

463. Kot Darya Bal

464. Kot Daya Kishan (not operational)

465. Kot Ghulam Mohammad (old name Jamesabad) (not operational)

466. Kot Gurdit Singh (not operational)

467. Kot Haji Shah

468. Kot Ihsan (not operational)

469. Kot Khair Din (Halt)

470. Kot Lakhpat

471. Kot Lalloo

472. Kot Mul Chand

473. Kot Najib Ullah

474. Kot Nasir

475. Kot Nawaz (on now closed Faisalabad-Jaranwala section) (not operational)

476. Kot Pir Abdul Aziz (Halt)

477. Kot Radha Kishan

478. Kot Salim Shaheed (old name Kot Nihal Singh) (not operational)

479. Kot Sultan

480. Kotla Adib Shaheed

481. Kotla Jam

482. Kotla Pathan (not operational)

483. Kotri Jn

484. Kotsamaba

485. Kuchlak

486. Kuh-I-taftan

487. Kul Mokal

488. Kulab (not operational)

489. Kundian Jn

490. Kunri

491. Kunri Memon (Halt) (not operational)

492. Kussam Sar (not operational)

493. Kutabpur

494. Kut-al-Imara (not operational)

495. Kutbal (not operational)

496. Lahore Cant

497. Lahore Jn

498. Lakha Road

499. Lakhi Ghulam Shah (Halt) (not operational)

500. Lakhnewala (not operational)

501. Laki Marwat Jn (not operational) (Narrow Gauge)

502. Laki Shah Saddar

503. Lal Pir

504. Lala Musa Jn

505. Lalian

506. Lalsuhanra

507. Landhi Jn

508. Landi Khana (not operational) (used to be last station on Khyber Railway)

509. Landi Kotal (not operational)

510. Langar

511. Langowal Baruhi

512. Larkana Jn

513. Latif Chang (Closed after intro. of Auto block signalling b/w Karachi-Kotri)

514. Leiah

515. Liaqatabad (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

516. Liaquatpur

517. Lilla

518. Lilla Town

519. Lindsay

520. Lodhran Jn

521. Lohi Bihir

522. Ludewala

523. Lundo

524. Lyari (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

525. Mach

526. Machhi Goth

527. Machhianwala

528. Machhike (not operational)

529. Machur (Halt) (not operational)

530. Mackrach Road (not operational)

531. Madeji Road

532. Madharianwala (not operational)

533. Madina-tul-Hujjaj

534. Madrisa

535. Magneja (not operational)

536. Mahesar

537. Mahiota

538. Mahmood Kot

539. Mahmunwali

540. Maibal

541. Mailsi

542. Makhad Road

543. Makhdum Sahib

544. Makhdumpur Pahoran

545. Malakwal Jn

546. Malir

547. Malir Cant

548. Malir Colony Jn

549. Mamu Kanjan

550. Mancher Chatta

551. Mandi Ahmadabad Hira Singh

552. Mandi Baha-ud-din

553. Mandi Burewala

554. Mandi Rahme Shah Chak Rahme Shah

555. Mandi Sadiq Ganj Jn (old name McLeod Ganj Jn)

556. Mando Dairo

557. Mandra Jn

558. Manga (not operational)

559. Manghopir

560. Mangoli

561. Manguana (Halt)

562. Manjhand

563. Manjhla Bagh

564. Mankiala

565. Mansurabad

566. Mansurwali

567. Mardan Jn (not operational)

568. Margallah Islamabad Dry Port Station in Sector I-9

569. Marh Balochan

570. Mari Indus

571. Mariyal

572. Marshalling Yard Pipri

573. Mashori Sharif (Halt)

574. Massan

575. Matapan (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

576. Matli

577. Mauladad

578. Maulviwala

579. Medanak (not operational)

580. Mehar Shah

581. Mehrabpur Jn

582. Mehta Suja

583. Meting

584. Metla (not operational)

585. Mian Channun

586. Mian Shamir

587. Miani

588. Mianwali

589. Mina Bazar (not operational)

590. Minchinabad

591. Mir Allahdad Talpur (Halt) (not operational)

592. Mir Dostali

593. Mir Hassan Khoso (Halt)

594. Mirdad Muafi

595. Mirjawa

596. Mirpur Khas Jn

597. Mirpur Mathelo

598. Mirrani (not operational)

599. Missa Keswal

600. Missan Kalar

601. Mitha Lak

602. Mitha Tiwana

603. Mithankot

604. Mithiani (not operational)

605. Mithri

606. Mitti Roya (not operational)

607. Model Colony (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

608. Moenjo-Daro (old name Dokri)

609. Moghalpura (old name Mian Mir and Lahore Cant)

610. Mohammadpur Diwan (not operational)

611. Mohammadwala (on now closed Faisalabad-Jaranwala section) (not operational)

612. Mohra Shahwali (Halt)

613. Mohsinwal (old name Kot Sujan Singh)

614. Moman

615. Mona

616. Moro (not operational)

617. Mubarakabad (not operational)

618. Mubarakpur

619. Muddoki

620. Mughal

621. Muhammad Nagar

622. Muhammad Rahim Kalru (not operational)

623. Mujahidabad (Halt)

624. Mujaldiwala (Halt) (not operational)

625. Mulla Makhan (not operational)

626. Multan Cant

627. Multan City

628. Munianwala (not operational)

629. Murad Chishti (old name Chak Datar Singh)

630. Muradi Janjil (Halt) (not operational)

631. Murghai

632. Muridke

633. Musa Virk (not operational)

634. Mushkaf

635. Muslimbagh (old name Hindubagh) (not operational) (Narrow gauge)

636. Muzaffarabad

637. Muzaffargarh

638. Nabisar Road

639. Nafees Nagar (Halt) (not operational)

640. Naim Ashfaq Shaheed (old name Khikha)

641. Nakus

642. Nammal

643. Nankana Sahab

644. Nao-Abad (not operational)

645. Narang

646. Nari

647. Nari Bank

648. Narija (Halt) (not operational)

649. Narowal Jn

650. Nasai (not operational)

651. Nasarpur

652. Nasrat (Halt)

653. Naukot

654. Naurang Serai (not operational)

655. Naushaharo Feroze (not operational)

656. Nautheh

657. Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan

658. Nawabshah Jn

659. Nawan Pind (Halt)

660. Nawaz Dahri

661. Nazikabad (not operational)

662. Nethri (on now closed Faisalabad-Jaranwala section) (not operational)

663. New Chhor

664. New Saidabad (not operational)

665. Nishatabad

666. Nishtarabad (old name Sikhanwala)

667. Nizam Sama (Halt)

668. Nizamabad (not operational)

669. Nok-Kundi

670. Noor Mohammad Mokal

671. Noor Shah

672. Norai Sharif

673. North Block Hut

674. North Nazimabad (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

675. Notak

676. Nowshera Jn

677. Nur

678. Nurkot

679. Nushki

680. Nuttall

681. Oderolal

682. Odhano (not operational)

683. Okara

684. Okara Cant (old name Gambar)

685. Ongar (Closed after intro. of Auto block signalling b/w Karachi-Kotri)

686. Orangi (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

687. Pabbi

688. Pad Idan Jn

689. Padag Road

690. Paharpur Thal (old name Sohyathul) (Halt)

691. Pai Khel

692. Paigah

693. Pakhowal

694. Pakka Anna

695. Pakka Sidhar

696. Pakpattan

697. Palh

698. Palijani (not operational)

699. Panir

700. Panj Girain

701. Panj Pulla (Halt)

702. Pano Akil

703. Parche-ji-Veri (not operational)

704. Parkhu Dheri (not operational)

705. Pasrur

706. Patla

707. Patoyun (not operational)

708. Pattoki

709. Peeru Lashari

710. Pehro Kunri

711. Pejowali

712. Perak

713. Pervezwala (not operational)

714. Peshawar Cant

715. Peshawar City

716. Peshi

717. Pezu (not operational)

718. Phularwan

719. Phulji

720. Piaro Goth

721. Pin Dadan Khan

72 2. Pind Mukko (Halt)

723. Pindi Rasul

724. Pindora

725. Piplan

726. Pir Barkhurdar

727. Pir Jhand (Halt)

728. Pir Katpar (not operational)

729. Pir Mahal

730. Pir Mukhtiarwala (Halt) (not operational)

731. Pir Piai

732. Piran Ghaib

733. Pirawalla (not operational)

734. Pithoro Jn

735. Pithu Rana (Halt)

736. Port Trust (Halt) (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

737. Prem Nagar

738. Qadirabad (not operational)

739. Qaimpur (not operational)

740. Qalat-I-Nasir (Halt) (not operational)

741. Qila Sattar Shah

742. Qila Sheikhupura Jn

743. Quaidabad

744. Qudrat (Halt) (not operational)

745. Qudratabad

746. Quetta

747. Rabwah

748. Radhan

749. Rafiqabad (not operational)

750. Rafiqwal

751. Rahim Yarkhan

752. Rahmani Nagar (old name Sita Road)

753. Rahuki (not operational)

754. Raisan (not operational)

755. Raiwind Jn

756. Raja Jang

757. Rajan Shah

758. Rajanpur

759. Rajar Pak Rajar (not operational) (located on meter gauge Mirpur Khas-Nawabshah section)

760. Rajput Nagar

761. Rakh Rajar (not operational)

762. Ran Pethani

763. Ranipur Riyasat

764. Raokhanwala

765. Rashidabad (Halt) (Inaugurated June 3, 2003)

766. Rashkai (not operational)

767. Rasulpur (Halt)

768. Ratanabad (not operational)

769. Ratial

770. Rattian (Halt)

771. Rawalpindi

772. Raya Khas

773. Renala Khurd

774. Reti

775. Riazabad

776. Risalewala

777. Risalpur Cant (not operational)

778. Rohri Jn

779. Rojhan

780. Roshanabad (not operational)

781. Ruk

782. Rukanpur

783. Rumian

784. Rurala Road

785. Rustam Sargana

786. S.I.T.E (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

787. Sabu Rahu (not operational)

788. Sabzazar

789. Sachha Sauda

790. Sadhar (Halt)

791. Sadhoke

792. Sadikabad

793. Sadiqpur (not operational)

794. Sadoro (Closed after intro. of Auto block signalling b/w Karachi-Kotri)

795. Safdarabad (old name Dhaban Singh)

796. Sahianwala

797. Sahiwal (old name Montgomery)

798. Sahja (not operational)

799. Sahowala

800. Saindad

801. Sakrand Jn (not operational)

802. Saleem Awan (old name Banth) (not operational)

803. Salih Bhambro (not operational)

804. Samanabad

805. Samandwala

806. Samaro Road

807. Samasata Cabin A

808. Samasata Goods

809. Samasata Jn

810. Sambrial

811. Samtiah

812. Samungli Road

813. Sanawan

814. Sandral (not operational)

815. Sangi

816. Sangjani

817. Sangla Hill Jn

818. Sanjwal

819. Sann

820. Sanzala

821. Sar Shamir Road

822. Sarai Alamgir

823. Saranan

824. Sardar Jhandir

825. Sardar Wali Mazari

826. Sardheri (not operational)

827. Sargodha Jn

828. Sarhad (not operational)

829. Sarhari

830. Sar-I-ab

831. Saroba (old name Machrach Road)

832. Sarwar Shaheed (Halt)

833. Sarwarnagar (old name Mohattanagar) (not operational)

834. Sathoiwala (not operational)

835. Sawai Wala (not operational)

836. Sayyed Kasran (not operational)

837. Sehjowal

838. Sehwan Sharif

839. Seni Gambat

840. Serai Saleh

841. Setharja

842. Shadan Lund

843. Shadia

844. Shadipalli

845. Shafiabad (not operational)

846. Shah Abdul Latif (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

847. Shah Alam

848. Shah Jewana

849. Shah Nal

850. Shah Nawaz Bhutto

851. Shah Nikdur

852. Shah Panjo (Halt)

853. Shah Sultan (Halt)

854. Shah Taj (not operational)

855. Shahbaz Khel (not operational)

856. Shahbazwala (not operational)

857. Shahdadpur

858. Shahdara Bagh Jn

859. Shaheed Allah Bakhsh (not operational)

860. Shahgai (not operational)

861. Shahidanwala

862. Shahinabad Jn (old name Hundewali)

863. Shahpur Chakar (not operational)

864. Shahpur City

865. Shahpur Jahania (not operational)

866. Shahpur Sadar (not operational)

867. Shahwali

868. Shamkote

869. Sharigh

870. Sheikh Mandah

871. Sheikh Wasil

872. Sheikhwahan

873. Shelabagh

874. Sher Shah Jn

875. Shikarpur

876. Shinkai (not operational)

877. Shori (not operational)

878. Shori Chatta (not operational)

879. Shorkot Cant Jn (old name Shorkot Road Jn)

880. Shujabad

881. Sialabad

882. Sialkot Jn

883. Sibi Jn

884. Sihala

885. Sihar

886. Sillanwali

887. Silra Shahdadkot

888. Simzai (not operational)

889. Sind University

890. Sinjhoro (not operational)

891. Sirajwala (not operational)

892. Skhakot (not operational)

893. Sobhaga

894. Sobhawalla

895. Sodhra Kopra

896. Sohan Bridge

897. Sohawa

898. Sood Bhidana (Halt) (not operational)

899. South Block Hut

900. Spezand Jn

901. Spintangi

902. Srirampura

903. Sufiabad (not operational)

904. Sukh Beas (not operational)

905. Sukheke

906. Sukho (not operational)

907. Sukhpur (not operational)

908. Sukio Manahejo (not operational)

909. Sukkur

910. Sulemanabad

911. Sultan Khel (not operational)

912. Sultan Kot

913. Sultan Krori (Halt) (not operational)

914. Sultanabad

915. Sumbal Hamid

916. Sumrasar (Halt)

917. Sunehri

918. Tajpur Nasarpur Road

919. Takht Mahal

920. Takht-I-Bhai (not operational)

921. Talhar

922. Talhi (not operational)

923. Tamewali

924. Tandlianwala

925. Tando Adam Jn

926. Tando Allahyar

927. Tando Jam

928. Tando Jan Mohammad (not operational)

929. Tando Mohammad Khan

930. Tando Mustikhan

931. Tando Sarwar (old name Tando Siru) (not operational)

932. Tandoi

933. Tank (not operational) (narrow gauge)

934. Tanwari (not operational)

935. Taqipur

936. Tara Garh (Halt) (not operational)

937. Tarinda

938. Tarki

939. Taru Jabba

940. Tasirabad (Halt)

941. Tatipur

942. Taunsa Barrage

943. Taunsa Barrage Colony

944. Taxila Cant Jn (old name Taxila Jn)

945. Tehsil Shakargarh

946. Thal (not operational)

947. Thanedarwala (not operational)

948. Tharushah Jn (not operational)

949. Thatt Hotchand (not operational)

950. Thatta Mahla

951. Theri Sansi (not operational)

952. Thermal Power Station (Between Budh and Muzaffargarh Stations)

953. Thul Nao Thul Sind

954. Tibbi Alamgir (not operational)

955. Tibbi Izzat (not operational)

956. Tinoka

957. Toba Tek Singh

958. Tobah

959. Togh (not operational)

960. Tora Tigga (not operational)

961. Toraghbargi (not operational)

962. Tozgi (not operational)

963. Trag (not operational)

964. Tufail Shaheed (Halt)

965. Uchhri

966. Ugoke

967. Ummedpur (b/w Narang and Srirampura on Lahore-Narowal section) (not operational)

968. Umid Ali Junejo (Halt)

969. Unarpur

970. Urdu College (Halt) (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

971. Usman Khattar

972. Usmanwala

973. Usta Mohammad

974. Ustarzai (not operational)

975. Vakilwala (not operational)

976. Vasar Bah (not operational)

977. Vihari

978. Wagah

979. Wagowal

980. Wah

981. Wah Cant

982. Wahab Shah

983. Walhar

984. Wali Khan (old name Mastung Road)

985. Walton (old name Walton Training School)

986. Wan Adhan (not operational)

987. Wanbachran

988. Warburton

989. Waryam

990. Wazir Mansion (not operational) (Karachi Circular Railway)

991. Wazirabad Jn

992. Wilsonpur

993. Yakmach

994. Yaru

995. Yaru Khosa

996. Yazman (b/w Kut-ul-Imara and Fort Abbas. Dismantled during WW II) (not operational)

997. Yousafwala (not operational)

998. Zafar Iqbal (Halt)

999. Zafarwal

1000. Zahidan Duzdap

1001. Zahir Nagar (Halt)

1002. Zahir Pir

1003. Zardalu (Last station on Sibi-Khost line beyond Khost) (not operational)

1004. Zarghun (not operational)

1005. Zarif Shaheed (old name Raja Ram) (not operational)

1006. Zeal Pak

1007. Zero Mile (Built in 2006. at Khokhrapar – Munabao Border)

1008. Zhob (old name Fort Sandeman) (not operational)

1009. Zintara (not operational)

Khyber Pass

Owais Mughal

It is 8:00 a.m. on a sunny Sunday at Peshawar cantonment. The Steam locomotive number 2216, which was built in 1916 by Kitson and Company of Leeds, UK is all set to start on yet another journey. The driver and fireman give one final inspection to the engine vitals and with a long whistle the number 2216 coupled to a tourist train pulls out of the station. Today the destination is Landi Kotal via Khyber Pass.

Railtracks across a Runway

The train gains speed and soon passes through Peshawar localities of Notia Gate, Swati Gate and Bara Gate. Since the track is now seldom used, there are vehicles parked very close to the track. Many children run along and clap as they see the approaching train. After crossing Bara Gate the train slows down and ultimately comes to a full stop. In front of the locomotive lies the 9000 ft long runway of Peshawar International Airport. The train now waits for clearance from the airport control tower before it could move. Peshawar is the only international airport in the world where a rail track crosses the main runway. The photo to the left is the satellite image of Peshawar airport's main runway. The diagonal path crossing the runway is the Peshawar - Landi Kotal rail track. After clearance is received from the control tower, the train chugs forward.

After clearing runway the train passes through the localities of University town, Kacha Garhi and Hayatabad. The famous 1756 km long Karachi-Torkham highway N5 comes closer to the rail track and both start traveling in parallel towards Jamrud. Located 18 km west of Peshawar, Jamrud is the gateway to Khyber Pass. The train reaches Jamrud in a less than an hour and and after a short stop continues its journey westward into the Khyber Pass. The photo to the right shows the arrival of a tourist train at Jamrud station

While the train is slowly steaming through its 3 hour journey towards Landi Kotal, how about if we take a detour of about 150 years and cover the history of railways in Khyber. We will catch the train again as it will be entering the Landi Kotal platform around noon.

History of Khyber Pass Railway

Let us go back in time to the year 1857. The ‘Great Game’ is being played between the World powers on the chess board of central and south Asia. Russian influence is present in Afghanistan and British think there is a big possibility of Russian invasion into India. The most obvious routes for this possibility will be through Khyber or Bolan Pass. Therefore it is suggested that strategic railways be built in both of these passes to thwart any Russian invasion in to India.

The black and white photo to the left above shows a train through Khyber Pass in 1970.

In 1878, second Anglo-Afghan war (1878-1880) takes place and it makes it all the while more important to lay a railway track through western passes of India. In 1879 a reconnaissance survey is conducted with an aim to find the feasibility of laying railways through Khyber Pass. In 1880, a British engineer named Victor Bailey is entrusted for making plans for laying a meter-gauge (1000 mm) railway through Khyber Pass. Many years pass without any action on the ground. Finally the construction starts in 1905 from a place called Kacha Garhi between Peshawar and Jamrud. The track makes progress westwards and 32 km of track is laid by 1907.

The photo to the left shows an engine through sequential tunnels in Khyber Pass.

International situation changes soon and an alliance takes place between Russia and Afghanistan. Russia agrees to consider Afghanistan out of its circle of influence countries. British now considerRussia as no longer a threat as it used to be. This stops the work on Khyber Railway. In 1909, several kilometers of permanent way and bridges are uprooted from Khyber Pass and sent to other areas of India to be used there.

As it goes with the World politics, international situation changes again and the third Anglo-Afghan war of May 1919 brings life back to Khyber Pass Railway project. Colonel Gordon Hearn is now assigned the work to survey and recommend the best route through Khyber Pass. Until now all surveys recommended a meter gauge (1000 mm) track. Gordon Hearn proposes and demonstrates by a masterly survey that broad-gauge (1676 mm) line can be laid through the pass.

Who drove the first train in Khyber Pass?

Construction restarts in 1920 and the section from Jamrud to Landi Kotal, opens on November 3, 1925. Next day on November 4, Mrs. Victor Bailey, wife of the British engineer entrusted with the construction of Khyber Railway drives the first train through Khyber Pass. There are two stories as to why Mrs. Victor Bailey drove the first train through the pass.

1. 
   
   
   
   It was decided by the British government that Victor Bailey will run the inaugural train as recognition of his great work at the project but he died three months before the inauguration. His wife then honored the driving of train on her husband’s behalf.
2. 
   
   
   
   According to second version, as the track was being laid, the locals of the Khyber Agency did not allow the train to move on it. However, knowing the traditional respect the Pathans have for women, Victory Bailey, asked his wife to drive the first train in the Khyber Agency. It has been reported that she drew long hair so that she could be identified as a women from a distance.

On April 3, 1926 another portion of 8 km track is opened up to Landi Khana which fall just 3 km short of the actual frontier post of Torkham. The photo in sepia to the left is from April 27, 1932. It shows a tunnel on Khyber Pass railway alongwith (now highway) N5 which runs alongside the track. On December 15, 1932 the Landi Kotal to Landi Khana section of railway is closed down at the insistence of Afghan Government.

The Cost of Construction

The cost of building Khyber Pass railway was accounted as Rupees 485000 per kilometer in 1926. despite this exorbitant cost of construction, Khyber Pass has never seen heavy rail traffic. At best there were only 2 trains per week here. Scenery wise Khyber Pass is also not an eye catch either but the feature that sets it apart from other railways in the region is the engineering aspect of it.

Engineering Features of Khyber Pass Railway

The Khyber Pass railway has a ruling gradient of 3 percent between Jamrud and Landi Kotal. There is a rise of nearly 2000 feet in 34 kilometers, and a drop of 872 feet in the next 8 kilometers to Landi Khana, where in many places the gradient stiffens to 1 in 25. There are 4 reversing stations, 34 tunnels with an aggregate length of more than 4 kilometers, 92 bridges and culverts, and 4 locomotive watering stations. And during the construction, three million cubic yards of materials mainly rock, were moved in the cuttings and embankments.

Reversing Stations and Catch sidings

Reversing stations are an important feature of Khyber Railways. Since it is not easy to bend a train here due to tight space, trains switch tracks and engines change direction at the reversing station. The Khyber Railways is the last of the great railway constructions undertaken on the frontier during the British Raj. Besides reversing stations, track at numerous places is also provided with the runway train catch sidings. One such catch siding is shown in the photo on the left.

From 1947 onwards, Pakistan Railway has continued a weekly passenger service through Khyber Pass. The service runs free of charge simply as a gesture to prove to the fiercely independent tribesmen that the line, in-spite of them, is open and the Pakistan Government is the boss. The regular service in Khyber Pass stopped in 1982 due to the lack of commercial patronage.

Khyber Steam Safari Schedule for 2006

Due to axle load limitations, diesel engines cannot run on this track. Therefore Khyber Pass railway to date is served by steam locomotion only. At present a tourist train called the 'Khyber Steam Safari' is operated here by a privately owned tourist company. The train runs few times a year on scheduled days as well as it can be chartered too.

For the remaining part of 2006, Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) in collaboration with PRACS and Sehrai travels will be running the Khyber Steam Safari trains on October 1, November 5 and December 3, 2006. For reservations you can call the UAN 111-366-366. Telephone number of Sehrai travels in Peshawar is 92-91-5272084/5

Locomotives Serving the Khyber Pass Railway

As of summer 2006, Peshawar shed is maintaining 3 HGS steam engines which are used on this tourist train called the Khyber Steam Safari. All of these are in working condition (as of 2006) and their details are as follows:

1. 2-8-0 HG/S Serial # 2216 built by Kitson and Co, of Leeds UK in the year 1916
   
2. 2-8-0 HG/S Serial # 2277 built Vulcan foundry in the year1923, and
   
3. 2-8-0 HG/S Serial # 2306 built Vulcan foundry in the year1923.

This completes the brief history of Khyber railway. It is around noon now. Let us now go to Landi Kotal station where our train which we parted in Jamrud is arriving. The station gives a festive look. The trains in Khyber Pass run seldom now therefore many locals have showed up at the station to welcome the train. Landi Kotal station is built in a very unique fortress like architecture. There are no windows or doors on the forbidding facade facing the platform.

Distance and Altitudes on Khyber Pass Railway

Considering Peshawar Cantt as 0 km, following table gives a view of distances and altitude of different landmarks along Khyber Pass Railway.

1. (0 km) Peshawar Cantt 1048 ft
2. (18 km) Jamrud 1496 ft
3. Bagiari 1837 ft
4. Medanak (1st Reversing Station) 2086 ft
5. (34 km) Chagai (2nd Reversing Station) 2270 ft
6. Shahgai 2265 ft
7. Kata Kushta 2799 ft
8. Zintara 3114 ft
9. Sultan Khel 3293 ft
10. (52 km) Landi Kotal 3494 ft
11. Tora Tigga (3rd Reversing Station) 2876 ft
12. (60 km) Landi Khana (4th Reversing Station) 2622 ft

The photo above shows the arrival of Sunday passenger at Landi Kotal in 1975.

Chronology of Khyber Pass Railway

As an appendix, I want to give the chronology of important dates regarding Khyber Pass Railway in the following.

1857: Chairman of Scinde, Punjab and Delhi Railway Company, Mr. William Andrew proposes rail routes through Khyber and Bolan passes.

1878: Second Anglo-Afghan war takes place

1879: Sir Guilford Molesworth, an English Civil Engineer who was consulting for Indian government considered a survey of meter gauge (1000 mm) railway through Khyber Pass.

March 27, 1880: A news appears in the Morning Post newspaper announcing the construction of Khyber Pass Railways. An excerpt from the news goes like this: "After three and twenty years of apathy the necessity has been realized and now these railways are being constructed."

1880: An engineer by the name of Victor Bailey is entrusted with the actual construction of Khyber Pass railways.

1885: Another survey was conducted by Captain JRL McDonald up to Landi Kotal.

1890: Captain JRL McDonald surveys another route to Khyber Pass following the gorge of River Kabul.

1898: One more survey was conducted to lay railways through Khyber Pass.1901: Broad Gauge (1676 mm) track is completed from Peshawar to Jamrud.

1905: Work started on laying an alternate meter gauge route following River Kabul into Mullagori hills.

1907: 32 km of broad gauge track was completed from Kacha Garhi to west of Jamrud into Loi Shilman valley.

August 31, 1907: Britain and Russia decide on an accord in St Petersburg. According to this agreement Britain will not annex or occupy Afghanistan and in return Russia will not consider Afghanistan a country of influence.

1909: Kabul River Railway is abandoned as threat from Russia is considered very low.

1919: Third Anglo-Afghan war takes place. Col Gordon Hearn plans a broad gauge Khyber Pass railway from Jamrud westwards.

1920: Construction of railways restarts west of Jamrud

November 3, 1925: Khyber Pass railway is inaugurated up to Landi Kotal.

November 4, 1925: First train runs on Khyber Pass railway. Train is driven by Mrs Victor Bailey.

April 23, 1926: Khyber Pass railway is extended to Landi Khana.

1926: Tracks were laid from Landi Khana to the border post at Torkham but a train never traveled on them.

December 15, 1932: Landi Kotal to Landi Khana section is closed on requests from Afghan government.

August 14, 1947: Pakistan gets independence and a weekly Sunday service to Landi Kotal continues

1982: Regular service to Landi Kotal is suspended because of lack of commercial value.

mid 1990s: A tourist train called ‘Khyber Steam Safari’ is started by a private enterprise in collaboration with Pakistan railways. This train is still in operation as of 2006. It runs on designated days a year and can be chartered too.

Video of Khyber Steam Safari 2004

An amateur video of Khyber Steam Safari 2004 is here. Copyrights belong to the link owner.

Photo Credits

Mr. Peter Patt, Mr. Zakir Khan and Mr Rana Rashid, Dr. Roland Ziegler and Mr. Nick Lera

References

1. Couplings to Khyber by P.S.A Berridge, 1968
2. Hundred Years of Pakistan Railway, M.B.K Malik, 1962
3. North Western Railway Time Table, November 1959
4. The Imperial Way by Paul Theroux, 1985
5. Andrew Grantham's page here
6. Dr. Roland Ziegler’s page on Pakistan tour of 1996 here.
7. Khyber Railway preservation Society of Pakistan here
8. Dr Ken J Walker at here
9. Mr. Rob Dickinson here
10. Pakistan Railway Newsgroup here
11. Illustrated Book of Steam and Rail by Colin Garratt, 2002